The dress of the Assamese people have social and cultural associations with it lending it a grace which is unique to it. Ancient texts like Kalika Puran, Shri Harsha Charita and paintings etc. have proper evidence regarding the apparel of the people of ancient Assam. During the Ahom reign, the Assamese dress witnessed tremendous change. In older times, Assamese men wore Suria or Dhuti (loin cloth of a man tied round his waist) and women Riha-Mekhela. Generally speaking, the common people wore Dhuti or Suria which was worn above the knee. The middle class menfolk used to wear their Dhutis till their ankles. The upper part of their body sed to be converted by a garment called Chador. The Ahoms introduced Sola (Shirt), Chapkan etc. It was from the time of the Ahoms that menfolk started wearing turbans.
Ahom history has mention of kings and other high officials wearing turbans. The wearing of Mekhela-Chador is an intricate process. The Mekhela is wrapped around the waist and pleated into three folds. The Chador is like the upper part of a Saree. Rina is a kind of scarf worn by women and it is a tradition which is maintained even now not withstanding the pressures of modernity.
Although times have changed and the influence of other modes of dressing-up have started dominating the scene, yet the originality of Mekhela-Chador is even now to be seen. It is a custom to present Gamocha to the elders and near and dear ones on ‘Bihu’. Assamese women have always been expert weavers. The quality of the woven material is so fine that they can be dried in the shade and it could be folded in the fist itself. The Assamese men, generally speaking, have stopped wearing Dhutis except on occasions like Bihu or religious ceremonies. Trousers, shirts have replaced such a fine traditional way of dressing up. Rubber or leather shoes have replaced Kharam or wooden sandals. It would be proper to talk about Commorbandh can be called the precursor to the modern day belt. Whatever may be the case, quality and status of Assamese dress has always been unique.